172. Soper's Hole

2 miles to go – approaching Soper’s Hole (West End Tortola)

I had a glorious sail across the Virgin Passage from Vieques to the Virgin Islands in light seas and twenty knots of wind. Six knots all the way in pretty much the right direction this time. After 10 hours I made St. Thomas, but wasn’t going to make Tortola before dark.  I checked on the chart and saw Honeymoon Bay on Water Island would be a good place for another illegal overnight stop. The next day would be an easy 20-mile sail to Tortola and I would avoid customs overtime fees. I was so happy; it’s around a thousand miles east from Grand Cayman, which I think is impressive. It’s taken eight weeks, a bit longer than I’d planned.

I passed some amazing bays and beaches as I steered through the Virgins.

St. John, USVI

Thatch Island, BVI

Finally I sailed into Soper’s Hole, BVI Sunday afternoon. In a very crowded anchorage I squeezed in between all the boats on mooring balls ($30 per night), and dropped my anchor. Then picked it back up and tried again not to be quite so close to another boat.

Shepherd's Marina, Soper's Hole

First stop, after customs and immigration, and laundry, and food and drink, is the sail maker. I’ve got quotes from Doyle and North Sails for a new mainsail, both around fifteen hundred dollars; that will be nearly all my savings. In the BVI I will make critical repairs, but most I’d like to do in St. Martin where things are cheaper.

171. Isla Caja de Muertos

The stunning beach at Isla Vieques, Puerto Rico

I was so sad leaving Casa de Campo. Partly because of all the thieving officialdom; customs, immigration, port authority, the navy, all wanted a 20-dollar ‘fee’ (cash only) to sign all my papers. But mainly because all of Calbodine lined up on the dock and waved me off. They were so much fun, I hope I see them all again.

Big waves, strong winds, especially that night took my mind off that, and made the going slow. All day, all night and I’d barely got half way across Mona Passage. I was doing six knots, pounding through waves, but not really going in the right direction. Another day and night and I made it to Puerto Rico, still not even half way to Tortola.

The dreaded island of Caja de Muertos, an island that cannot be found, except for those who already know where it is. Anyway I went there. Coffin Island seemed like a perfect place to stop after two days and two nights hard sailing from Casa de Campo. I was exhausted and still faced with days more non-stop sailing, I decided to make a semi illegal stop. I pulled up to the beach and dropped anchor. Only after did I notice a US Coastguard boat tied to the dock a mile down the beach, and sure enough they motored slowly over. All the US islands, unlike any other Caribbean Islands require visas; I can’t just arrive and clear in like everywhere else. However all they did was wave and say hello (although I’m sure they took a note of the boat name).

After a big bowl of spaghetti and a good night’s sleep, I carried on. Another overnight sail and I made Isla Vieques. I decided to sneak into Sun Bay and hide, get another night’s sleep and a good meal. I didn’t go ashore and had the excuse that I needed to make emergency repairs. If anyone did want to see important things that were broken, I’ve got plenty to show them. Some strong winds and lumpy seas, particularly the Mona Passage between DR and Puerto Rico have meant more damage. A rip in my jib was the scariest. It’s a two-foot long tear that luckily isn’t growing. I smashed my forehead with a winch handle, went face first into my bookshelf and got hit on the top of my head by the anchor locker lid. However, I’m very happy that I’ll soon reach Tortola.

170. Isla Catalina

Finally a beautiful white sandy beach. I left Boca Chica and sailed thirty miles further east to Isla Catalina. It was a windy, overcast day, the sea looked black and angry, and I didn’t arrive until after dark; it wasn’t much fun, but the next day I woke up next to a pristine white sandy beach and crystal clear water. I spent a great day lazing on the beach with s/v Calbodine.

The next day I sailed on to Casa de Campo, a big marina ten miles further east for the next night and to clear out with customs and immigration. My next sail is to the BVI and a very long one because I have to sail all around Puerto Rico. Even though I can travel to the States, and I’ve been to Puerto Rico before, I can’t go there by boat.