Thursday, 13 April 2017

161. Ocho Rios

On a beach in Mo’ Bay

I had to wait until Monday to leave Montego Bay to avoid customs weekend overtime fees. Actually customs were a real pain – even though I arrived on Friday at 2pm and had finished with immigration by 2.30, I didn’t finish with them until 3.20. So they charged me a $68 overtime fee because I cleared in after 3pm.

A diving pelican hits the water, Mo’ Bay

I left early morning and sailed round to Discovery Bay, the first stop on my way to Port Antonio. Early on my engine broke down. I hate working on the engine under sail, and I wasn’t able to fix it, but at least I found the problem – air in the fuel line. It soon became a very difficult sail; there was strong wind and big waves and it wasn’t long before more things started to break under the heavy pounding. I lost the wind vane from the top of my mast. Then I missed Disco Bay before dark, so rather than enter a new harbour and try to anchor in the dark without an engine, I hove to and grabbed a couple of hours sleep. Then I decided to carry on through the night. Eventually I made it to St. Ann’s Bay the next morning.

Sunset in St. Ann’s Bay

St. Ann’s Bay was miserable; the channel marker buoys were all missing. I had to surf in between waves breaking on reef, quickly drop anchor and lower sail before hitting the beach – it’s a very small bay, very exposed, and very rolly. There wasn’t anything on shore, apart from Jamaica’s loudest sound system that went off all night. Just as it finished at dawn, I pulled up anchor and motored through the channel, with my hopefully repaired engine, before the wind and waves picked up.

Ocho Rios

Out in the open ocean, the wind was even stronger, the waves even bigger. I decided to give up on Oracabessa and sail to Ocho Rios, the next harbor along the coast. The cruising guide, which recommended St. Ann’s, had not recommended Ochi – too touristy, but it’s lovely. A very sheltered bay, a beautiful beach and lots of shops and restaurants. I will rest here for a few days.




Sunday, 9 April 2017

160. Mo' Bay

When I left Little Cayman the wind was still to the southeast, exactly where I wanted to go, so I headed east, happy to get some easy easting. As I approached Cuba I figured it was time to head south, so I tacked and managed to go just a little east of south. Although I was going fast, I wasn’t really going in the right direction so it was taking ages. 

After a whole day and night I was still only half way, then the wind dropped completely. I thought I’d have to motorsail the rest of the way, but luckily in the middle of the second night the wind picked up massively from the southeast and I sped along directly east. I accidently fell asleep at about 1.30, but when I woke up at 4am I was still speeding along on course, my self-steering working beautifully. A couple of cruise liners and a tanker nearby kept me alert until daylight.

Sonic Boom anchored in Montego Bay

Forty-eight hours after setting off I approached Negril. A few dolphins came to say hello and play around with Sonic Boom, but I was only going four knots, and even though I clapped and whistled, they soon got bored and swam off. Or else they didn’t like all the clapping and whistling.

I anchored in Bloody Bay, tidied up a bit; the whole boat was covered in salt, crumbs, spilt drinks. Marine police came, boarded and then left. And then a thunderstorm brought heavy rain and I got a free boat shower – perfect. The next day I left all sparkly clean again and motor sailed round to Montego Bay. Six hours later I anchored just off Montego Bay Yacht Club. I cleared in with customs and immigration at the Yacht Club, had a swim and a shower and meal and a beer. Exhausted. Happy to be back in Jamaica.



Montego Bay Yacht Club




Friday, 7 April 2017

159. Pirates Point

Bloody Bay, Little Cayman 
Pirates Point dive boat on the left, M/V Cayman Aggressor anchored in the background

I had a great sail to Little Cayman. It took 24 hours, and was fairly drama free, although a shackle on my mainsheet traveler snapped, which was scary. South Hole Sound looked a bit rough, so I tied up in Bloody Bay instead. Right outside a big white house, owned by the owner of Pizza Hut.

Looking up at a turtle on the surface

Next day I went for a two-tank boat dive with Pirates Point Divers. Their boat came round to Bloody Bay and I jumped on board. Captain Michelle was awesome. After the dives I went back to Pirates Point Resort for lunch, and a swim in their pool.

Nassau Grouper – hiding


First we dove Jackson’s Bight and then Mixing Bowl. Absolutely spectacular. My favorite part was seeing a cleaning station; a huge grouper with its mouth fully opened, letting little fish go inside and clean its teeth. Also we saw turtles, stingrays, and lobsters...



Tomorrow I will sail to Jamaica. Almost twice as far as the sail to Little Cayman, I hope I can speed up a bit, and get there in about 30 hours...