Leaving Los Roques I planned to avoid another overnight sail
and stop for a night at Aves Barlovento, about 55 miles away; just about half
way to Bonaire. Once El Gran Roques disappeared out of view behind me, the sea
really picked up. The wind was good, nothing too strong, but the waves were
huge. A massive swell from a distant storm maybe. I had the waves to my stern
and my main sail fully out, so I was going fast up and down the waves. As the
waves got bigger, I was going really high up and surfing down, I hit 12.3 knots
according to the GPS (the theoretical top speed for my boat is 7).
One big wave lifted and twisted me at the crest and I jibed
– the boom swung all the way across, 180 degrees almost, incredibly fast (maybe
not Mach 1), but with a massive swoosh, crack and then sickening rip sound. My main
sail tore all the way across the bottom, and was now in two pieces. The mainsheet
track was smashed; trucks and shackles had flown away like shrapnel. I jibed
again and managed to grab hold of the main sheet as it flew by unattached, so I
could pull the boom in. I tied the main sheet off on a cleat and used the jib
winch (which luckily wasn’t being used). I saw the rip was just below the first
reef line, so I put a reef in, and the sail was good. I carried on, a bit in
shock.
Sonic Boom Christmas decorations
Then another big wave, and another nasty cracking,
splintering sound. I looked round, and saw my flag, still on the pole flying
away, below it I saw my outboard splashing into the sea. Jump in. Turn the boat round.
No point doing either, I sailed on, swearing as loud as I could for the next
half hour. Then just felt really sad. And stupid, for not having secured the
engine properly. Absolutely my fault. Even though it only cost two crates of
beer, I thought of all the trouble getting it and servicing it, and how much it
will probably be to replace it. Life without an outboard sucks.
I was tempted to make another overnight sail straight to Bonaire,
but as I approached Aves I decided against it. I headed into another
magnificent lagoon of dark blue and turquoise water. Again I was cutting it
fine, I dropped the anchor at 6pm, already the sun had gone. I ate, slept and set
off at dawn to Bonaire, about 10 hours away.
approaching Bonaire
Nine days since leaving Trinidad, and over 400 miles, I
arrived in Bonaire, just as the sun was setting. S/V Somewhere, a boat I knew
from St Martin, good friends with Honey Ryder, helped me grab a mooring ball.
They said Sabrina had been asking if they’d seen me yet, so they were looking out
for me. I went for Christmas Eve beers with them and s/v Cheers. We had dinner,
and they all made me feel much better.
a very poorly Sonic Boom moored in Bonaire
I will stay here for a few days – it’s gorgeous, and I need
to provision, get water and recover a little before sailing again. But I’ve
already discovered Curacao will be better for repairs, and I’ve got lots. I
need major repairs to both sails, depth gauge, my bilge pump died (with a
little pop and a puff of smoke), and needs replacing. Most of all I need a new
outboard. I’ve been rowing to a small beach to go ashore, but today a kid there
managed to break one of my oars. That’s two sails, one engine and an oar. I’ve
only got one engine and one oar left.
Merry Christmas
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