4. British Virgin

I’m sailing around the British Virgin Islands for a couple of weeks, waiting for the boat registration paperwork, getting used to the boat and practicing things like heaving-to and setting and raising anchor. I need to get used to doing things single-handed.

My first solo passage was from Manuel Reef Marina, where the previous owners had my boat moored, round the island to Trellis Bay. It took me just less than 4 hours, but that included 20 minutes of poking my boathook at various mooring balls until Trish, a lovely lady from Tasmania, spotted me and came to help. I hooked up to a mooring ball, took a break, had a cup of tea and then dropped my anchor. Successful passage. Kind of, I got blisters on my fingers.

Trellis Bay

At Trellis Bay there are lots of people who live aboard their boats, so a good place to meet people. It’s also very close to the airport. The best things though are the full moon party and swimming with turtles in the bay. However, there aren’t many facilities, like showers or laundry. Much better is to motor over to Marina Cay, a tiny little island which has a fuel dock, showers, laundry, a great restaurant, free Wi-Fi and good snorkeling.

http://www.marinacay.com

Marina Cay

On Tortola, cheap places to stay are hard to find. Sebastian’s on the Beach is the best I think. It’s on a lovely beach and has a great restaurant. Their garden rooms are some of the cheapest on the island. Walk west over the hill to Smuggler’s Cove, one of the nicest beaches on Tortola. To the east is Cane Garden Bay, another beautiful white sandy beach.

http://www.sebastiansbvi.com/bvi/default.aspx

Smuggler's Cove

Another place I would recommend for a cheap accommodation is Nanny Cay Marina Hotel. Also the best marina, if you need to stay in one. It has a nice beach, lovely swimming pool and one of the best beach bars on the island.

http://nannycay.com

Jost van Dyke is amazing. On a boat, anchor off White Bay. If you’re not on a boat stay at Ivan’s campground, a great place with little wooden huts on the beach. Quite cheap, even cheaper if you bring your own tent. Take a walk over the hill from White Bay to Great Harbor; there are some amazing views. Walk the other way and you come to the Soggy Dollar Bar; a great place to meet other sailors and drink painkillers.

http://www.ivanscampground.com

Hitching a lift from Great harbor back over the hill to Ivan’s one day, I met a lovely girl called Arianna. It turned out her Mum worked at Ivan’s and agreed to give me a ride in her new truck. We waited for her to collect some take away fried chicken, and then just as we were setting off, Arianna threw up into her hands and all over the front seat. I helped her clean her hands and face with a bottle of water I had, while her Mum angrily cleaned up the car.  So we became friends and I spent the next few days, hanging out with Arianna while she was off school poorly, building sandcastles and having fun.

Arianna